The art of jewelry design has been practiced in almost every known human civilization. Jewelry objects have been found as far back as 75,000 years, part of the culture in pre-historic Africa. As archaeologists well know, this human need for ornamentation suggests that jewelry designs and styles can provide important insights into the culture and events of the times in which they were made.
Beginning as an ornamental or spiritual object, jewelry transitioned with time to become much more practical within the economic domain. The easy liquidating potential of jewels gained them an essential role in the politics of Europe. Much like today, jewels assumed a symbol of rank, wealth, and social standing, and were even used in historic times to guarantee loans!
The last 100 years in jewelry design have seen many changes in style and design, however the significance of these changes extends far beyond being a reflection of the artistic tastes of the time. Along with aesthetics, each piece represents the societal principles, cultural values, and economic status of their respective era.
The 20 century saw huge societal shifts in the civilized world; the artistic products of the century correspond with those changes. Our reverence for the past has led us to delve deeply into the last 100 years of history. Here, we take a close look at the major influences on the most noticeable shifts in jewelry designs and styles.
Art Nouveau: 1839-1905
Although it existed for a brief amount of time, Art Nouveau left a lasting impact on jewelry. Named after Siegfried Bins avant-garde Parisian shop, La Maison de l’Art Nouveau, this style followed a new blend of design principles and innovative materials. With the struggle in the up-and-coming industrial age, traditional craftsmanship was emphasized, as people wished to remember a more romantic time. Designs were inspired by the world of nature, with jewelry pieces from this period featuring dreamy flora and fauna, serpents, and dragonflies. The style’s free-flowing forms were a deliberate reaction to the rigidity of machine-made and mass-produced jewelry that cropped up in the industrialized world.
Belle Epoque: 1895-1914
This Belle Epoque movement was characterized by expanded artistic refinement and quality. With the introduction of the malleable yet strong platinum, designers were able to create jewelry of unrivaled technical excellence. The new century began with a light-hearted start, with the amazing feats of the Wright brothers, the first Model-T, and Einstein’s Theory of relativity. The first WWI came soon after, with it’s terrible dominance in the 1910’s, but art continued on the same spirited trend, with platinum designs becoming more delicate than ever. The royal, often lavish look of the times, was achieved with multiple jewels set in ornate metalwork. The major royalty-inspired themes of this time period were garlands, bows, and designs with pearl and diamond combinations.
Art Deco: 1915-1935
Following WWI, there was a growing disillusionment with the fanciful notions of previous times. In contrast to the Art Nouveau era, industrial processes were embraced during the Art Deco period. Looking to distance themselves from the romantic styles of old, designers focused on form and simplicity. Similar to the Art Deco movement of architecture, abstract geometric patterns and the innovative use of color were emphasized along with simplistic stylization, reflecting the emerging modern woman: sporty, active, and angular. Gem-set wristwatches, cigarette cases and power compacts became pieces of jewelry, decorated with inlaid hardstone, diamonds, or enamel on lacquer. Wit the major technical innovations of the period, such as Van Cleef & Arpel’s invisible setting, prongs were no longer needed to set gemstones together, allowing designs to have a continuous surface of gemstones, without any metal seen. Toward the end of the Art Deco period, sharp geometry gradually softened into more sculptural, three dimensional forms, demonstrating the beginnings of volume and curves to complement the return of traditional femininity in society.
Retro: 1940-1950
Wartime austerity curbed the whims of fashion and taste, as materials were harder to come by. As clothes became inevitably more sensible, costume jewelry became a valuable necessity. The jewelry industry saw the introduction of striking and dramatic pieces characterized by masculine lines and bold ‘cocktail’ jewels. Designers used vibrant plastic, sterling silver, and woods. Diamonds were a rarity during this time, with semi-precious stones such as aquamarines and citrines taking off to replace the more expensive, and often smaller, precious gems. A small resurgence of floral designs indicates the desire to create naturalistic fantasy amid the devastation of wartimes.
60’s and 70’s
The use of unconventional materials in design corresponded with the rebellious mood of the times. With attention turned toward the East, gold jewelry became popular, acquiring a distinct Indian flavor. Color contrasts and bright opaque materials like turquoise and coral echoed fashion, while jagged contours such as marquise-cut diamonds and prominent claw settings, challenged the flow of traditional lines. Although classic jewels were still in demand, more contemporary pieces were inspired by historic events such as the first man on the moon.
Contemporary: 1980-Present
The rise in wealth during the 80’s was fused with bigger jewelry, larger cuffs, structural designs, and edgier accessories. The 1980’s power dressing was complemented by polished gold and sleek designs in jewelry. As contemporary jewelers continue to push the limits of their craft, antique and rare designs from the past are again highly desirable. What is old is now new again. The history attached to each design only adds to the mystique of these antique and yet timeless pieces.
